‘Substantial volume’ of clothing tied to Uyghur forced labour entering EU, says study
A worker gathers cotton yarn at a textile manufacturing plant in Xinjiang, in north-west China, in 2021. Photograph: Mark Schiefelbein/AP
Calls for legislation after dozens of brands identified as being at risk of sourcing materials linked to China’s transfer programmes
A “substantial volume” of clothing tainted by the use of Uyghur forced labour is entering the European Union market, according to a report, as campaigners say the EU’s checks are not doing enough to weed out coercive work from large supply chains.
Dozens of well-known brands including H&M and Zara are identified as being at high risk of sourcing materials, particularly cotton and PVC, made by Uyghurs compelled to participate in state-imposed labour transfer programmes, according to a report from Uyghur Rights Monitor, Sheffield Hallam University and the Uyghur Centre for Democracy and Human Rights.
The researchers investigated four leading Chinese apparel companies that have “significant ties” to Xinjiang, via sourcing, subsidiaries, and manufacturing, and have links with western brands. Those companies have supplied brands including Zara and Primark, according to the report.